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La Truffière relancée à Paris

• Par  Maurice Beaudoin
• Publié le 01/06/2018 à 07:00

Le chef, Aurélien Braguier, a ressuscité la vieille maison.

La Truffière relancée à Paris • Par Maurice Beaudoin • Publié le 01/06/2018

Il existe de bons chefs et, hélas, des moins bons. A La Truffière, j'avais fait une expérience calamiteuse en mars dernier. J'y suis retourné, à reculons, voilà quelques jours. Et là, miracle… Avec Aurélien Braguier, 33 ans, chef poitevin, La Truffière a retrouvé punch et joie de vivre. Cette maison du vieux quartier Mouffetard, authentique et romantique, est étonnante. Peu de couverts au rez-de-chaussée pour un service plus que parfait. Alexandre Lam, 23 ans, dont le père, khmer, vit toujours au Cambodge, est un maître d'hôtel grand style, proche des moindres désirs de ses clients. A 40 ans, le sommelier Benjamin Lacombe présente une étonnante carte des vins aux 4 200 références. Le propriétaire Christian Sainsard est un passionné de millésimes rares et de vins surprenants.

Imprimé en tête de la carte: «Restaurant-cuisine d'auteur». Intérêt, donc à assurer. Le résultat est là. Tout est très bon, remarquablement préparé, mais vraiment cher. Ceviche de daurade, gel de mangue au piment d'Espelette (36 €) ; foie gras de canard mi-cuit au pineau des Charentes (46 €) ; dos de cabillaud (62 €) ; filet de bœuf de Galice fumé (70 €). Avec la truffe noire Tuber melanosporum : céleri boule, truffe noire, émulsion de parmesan (62 €, photo) ; parmentier de queue de bœuf (95 €) ; risotto à la truffe noire (80 €). Pour les desserts, Julie Rondeau, la chef patissière (21 ans), décline parfaitement le kiwi. Quant aux attentions du directeur, Eric Pelchat, elles ne se relâchent pas, de l'arrivée jusqu'au départ.

Sûr, Aurélien Braguier va permettre à La Truffière, bonne table et maison à l'accueil remarquable, de conserver facilement son étoile en 2019.

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https://www.latabledogre.com/en/la-truffiere-2/

Alexandre Funfrock

21 Mars 2018

There are houses whose constancy and perseverance in adversity must be commended.
La Truffière had suffered a fire in 2002, which forced it to abandon its elegant fireplace (when you are kept by safety standards). It had waited years for a Michelin star, which has been significantly faster for other establishments.

At the departure of Jean-Christophe Rizet, the same guide removed this same star with a celerity rarely seen. It has been known to be much slower for other establishments…

The parenthesis Poard being closed, we begin today on new bases with Aurélien Braguier.
If I tell you that his last job was with Jean-Luc Rabanel, you know immediately what to expect: the sublimation of the vegetable in all its forms.

It starts with an amuse-bouche of peas with a confit tomato sauce, sesame-mounted cream and shizo young shoots. A preparation that clears the mouth at the beginning of a meal. Pretty worked product that sets the mood.

The ceviche de dorade alternates the variety of tastes by mixing avocado, lemon, Espelette pepper, red peppers and mango. The leaves of nasturtium and cucumber flowers complete the whole. There will be a slight imbalance on the lemon, a hint too present.
Small concern recognized by the chef and attributed, we agree, the settings inseparable from his recent arrival.

The mackerel is more Provençal since it is smoked with thyme and rosemary and accompanied by beans. The flower and especially the nasturtium leaf, which was already on the ceviche, gives an original peppery edge.
It is accompanied by an infusion of kaffir lime and fish bones stock. Infusion which is in fact an aroma but completely defatted. The appellation is more light!
It is always this nasturtium found on shrimp turmeric snack with an emulsion with seaweed.

Finally a little meat with the oysters meat of the crunchy tartlet of yellow carrots, parsnip, shizo and borage flower for this time.La Truffière Tartelette croquante sot-l’y-laisse

Then the Iberian pork presa, fennel, beetroot, carrot tops and nasturtium young shoots. And a reduced poultry juice.

What does not change at La Truffière is the impressive cheese platter that honors the French tradition. They are more and more rare the restaurants that dare to exceed the banal assortment of three / four pasta preserved without respect in the refrigerator.

As for desserts, the recent arrival of the chef has not yet given him the time to organize the menu as he pleases. So we remain for the moment on good achievements but remain fairly traditional, without the originality deployed in salty.

We can not finish a meal at La Truffière without being tempted by a digestive that Eric Pelchat will find you by plunging greedily into the cellar! Armagnac being my sin, it will be a Domaine de Mader 1974.

For the wines, Christian Sainsard is a passionate who accumulates the most prestigious flasks. It does not have 1 but 17 vintages of Petrus, 27 of Ausone and 28 of Cheval Blanc. But also 2 pages of Romanée-Conti and 13 pages of Champagne!

So you will find something to please.
But will I unnecessarily lengthen this article with the photos of the bottles that I had the pleasure (and the honor) to taste? I make you a simple gallery which, if you read the legends, will enrich without any problem your oenological culture. And you will of course salivate! As well as the cellar video:

Special mention to the astonishing bottle of 1998 Gran Murales, a rich Spanish wine. As well as Cheurlin champagne, superbly flowery and of great finesse.
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Being invited (since this is the case, and the code of ethics of the blog is clear) will prevent me from being objective on my evaluation?
Technically, there is really nothing wrong with the design and assembly of dishes. Then, as you know, I am an Ogre! So, as a personal matter, all this lacks a bit of fat for me. So not a reproach but information that you must have in mind when you book in this beautiful house. If you want a cassoulet dinner, you will be disappointed! It is an inventive cuisine, worked and light that will fill you for an elegant and refined evening.

Thank you for you visit Alexandre

Guide MICHELIN 2018

Au coeur du vieux Paris - à deux pas de la truculente rue Mouffetard -, cette maison du 17e s., toute de pierres, de poutres et de voûtes, cultive des plaisirs intemporels. Les préparations, visuellement soignées, regorgent de saveurs et assument une créativité de tous les instants : le chef aime surprendre et cela se sent. On propose toute l'année un menu truffe, dans lequel la célèbre "perle noire" est mise en valeur de façon originale : les amateurs seront ravis. Enfin, disciples de Bacchus, sachez également que la carte des vins est tout simplement remarquable, avec pas moins de... 4 600 références, françaises et mondiales. Cette adresse a assurément du nez.

Le mot de l'inspecteur

• Belle carte des vins.
• Assiette MICHELIN : une cuisine de qualité.
• Bon standing.

Informations Pratiques

Au cœur du célèbre « quartier latin », à quelques pas du nom moins renommé Panthéon, Christian Sainsard vous accueille dans cet établissement "La Truffière", classé du 17éme siècle, et évoquant un riche héritage historique.